Inspired

Fired up from a little surf movie viewing last night, I took the plunge into rough and choppy conditions that I'd usually pass on. Paddled right out without issue, and to my suprise quickly got a nice long right. Made a few pumps and hit the inside section. As I popped up, it was almost as if the ocean said, "Wait, what the hell was that? This is not a surf day. No more of that, here comes your punishment." I started paddling back out to row after row of white water. Each time I popped up, the next shoulder-head high wave was already breaking 25 feet in front of me. I would literally get two paddles in after popping up before having to duck again. After 30 mins, I said thanks for the one ride, and headed in early. All well worth it.